Assessing Nodulation and Nitrogen Fixation in Pulse Crops

Assessment Timing

Nodulation Assessments can start to be conducted approximately 3-4 weeks after crop emergence, corresponding to the 4th true leaf crop stage.  In years where there are cooler spring temperatures, it may take longer for the crop to reach the 4th true leaf stage where an assessment can be conducted.  Assessments can continue up until the early/mid flowering crop stage where the number of nodules will be maximized along with the amount of nitrogen fixation.  The later you conduct the assessment within the given timeframe, the easier it will be to see the nodules.

Technique

This is one of those field scouting operations that does require some tools to do the job properly.  You can’t just walk out into the field and pull up plants by hand as you’ll likely rip off the very nodules that you want to assess.

Tools of the trade to conduct a proper assessment of nodulation include:

  • A shovel and not just a little hand trowel
  • A bucket large enough to fit the plants
  • Water
  • Pocket knife
  • Notepad or app like Scoutdoc to record results

Now you are geared up for the job select a number of representative areas of the field that you would like to evaluate being mindful to avoid depressions, knolls and field borders.

Take your shovel and carefully dig around selected plants – making sure not to break off any roots.  If you are lucky (in this case meaning you do not have a heavy clay soil), you may be able to lightly loosen the soil around the roots with your hands without doing any damage to the roots or nodules.  If you cannot easily loosen the soil, then place the roots in a bucket of water for a few minutes and then try again to loosen the soil from the root system.

What To Visually Look For

Effectiveness of the nodules can be determined to some degree by looking at the color of the nodules.  Numbers and size of nodules do not necessarily correlate to the effectiveness of the inoculant strain.  If you only remember one point  – remember that bright red or pinkish color is the color that you want to see.  The red pigment leghaemoglobin is associated with active nitrogen fixation in nodules.  If you see medium/large white nodules, these are formed by ineffective rhizobia.  Gray or greenish nodules can either indicate the nodule is:

1)      past it’s prime and already made it’s nitrogen contribution to the plant

2)      the nodule is not contributing to N fixation because of other environmental factors

With most pulse crops you should be able to see the red/pinkish hue of the nodules without cutting open the nodule with a knife.  In other crops such as soybeans or alfalfa, you’ll need to slice open the nodule to see the nodule coloration.

The type of inoculant formulation used will dictate where you would expect to see nodules.  With seed applied inoculants like liquid or peat formulations, you should mostly see nodulation around the crown area of the plant.  With a granular formulation that is applied in furrow, you will see nodulation along the lateral root system.

Bright pink nodules clearly visible on roots of peas. In this case there are more lateral nodules typically associated with the use of granular inoculants applied in furrow.

Should there be a lack of effective nodules or no nodules, then an evaluation of inoculation technique AND environmental/soil conditions should be conducted.  If what you see is a bright red/pinkish coloration of the nodules,  this a good indicator of high nitrogen fixation potential.  Remember number and size of nodules vary between inoculants (native, brands) and counting, weighing or sizing is not as important as recognizing if there are good healthy nodules that are contributing to the overall nitrogen status of the plant.

Soybean plantng tips

Planting is the one thing you as a grower control and getting it right is critical to high yields in soybeans.  So how can I get more yield as a grower while planting soybeans?  It’s too late to talk about early planting advantages, soil temperatures, seed treatments and row widths as those decisions are done.  What can I manage now as I have my seed (treated and inoculated of course!) in the drill or planter and have already started planting?   

Stop and get off the tractor seat and check the following things:

Soil moisture – Ask yourself if you are causing sidewall compaction or setting yourself up for crusting issues or are you increasing soil compaction? If the answer is yes or maybe to any of these questions delay planting or adapt your management to alleviate the problems. When planting into dry soils it is very important to conserve the moisture by using the packer/roller during tillage and right after planting.

Planting depth – I know you checked it when you first went into the field but check it again watching out for compacted areas such as headlands and heavy clay knolls.  It is good practice to plant for a couple of hours then get out of the tractor to stretch your legs, get some fresh air and check the planting depth and do a quick circle check of the tractor and planting unit.   Are you into moisture? The goal is place the seed approx. ½ inch into moisture.  Are you planting too shallow (less than ¾ of an inch) or too deep (more than 2 ½ inches deep)?   Check different areas of the field and different soil types.

Now that you are back in the tractor seat check the forecast (using the phone or radio).  Since you know the soil moisture conditions manage the moisture (should I get the roller to this field by the end of the day or thunderstorm in the forecast tomorrow – let’s wait and see). 

Look at your speed.  How fast are you driving? Slow down – I know the new planters are can do amazing things, the drill can crank out seeds like crazy and the air seeder, well watch it go but at your current speed are you doing a good job of planting or just a fast job.  Most of us plant soybeans way too fast.  Increased speed can affect planting depth (due to planter bounce or planeing) increased seed coat damage and loss of population accuracy to name a few.  This is not a race – adjust your speed.

It’s game time.  Do your best and let Mother Nature take over and give you the best crop ever.  Have a safe planting season.

Digging soybean roots – add it to your scouting routine.

How often do you really dig up your soybean roots and look at them? Maybe if the field is a little yellow and you think the nodules are not working or if your field scout comes out and has a shovel in hand.  Normally digging roots and evaluating them is not routine as a soybean grower. I can understand why – it’s dirty, I usually forget my shovel (or leave it in the last field – bright handle shovels are easier to find), it’s a not easy.  Why do you want to do it then.  Simple to find out how you are going to grow the best crop of soybeans next year.

What do you need?  the short list would be a shovel, bucket of water, GPS (would be a great way to find the spot later), knife and a method of recording the results. Roots are difficult to work with as they often need a bit of ‘soak time’ to let go of the soil and give you a good visual of the complete system.  Let them soak for while (depending on the soil moisture and the clay content this may have to be over night).

What are we assessing?  First before the soak you should be able to dig up and see if the plant has nodules on it.  If you cut open a good healthy productive nodule it should be nice and pink.  If it is green or brown it is not a productive nodule.  Now remember number and size of nodules vary between inoculants (native, brands) and counting, weighing or sizing is not as important as recognizing if there are good healthy nodules on the soybean root.

Second, look at the overall structure is it a nice big root system with a deep taproot and a lot of branching (the majority will be in the top six inches of soil). Are the roots tips nice and healthy – White or yellow compared to dark brown or reddish?

Next look for any disease that maybe attacking the root (pythium, rhizoctonia, phytophthora or pythium) (Diseases of Field Crops – Soybean OMAFRA).  record infection level and location.

What about compaction? Is the root zone very condensed or small (tight soils (high bulk density)) which is caused by fully compacted root zone (working when wet, tire compaction etc.). Does the tap roots just stop as pictured here? If so there is a compaction layer that has formed and deep tillage maybe required. 

My roots are crooked and growing at right angles.  This is often a result of surface compaction (soil crusting) restricting emergence (excessive tillage and land rolling (easy stone picking) followed by heavy rains) (see side picture).

What else should we be scouting for?  Please comment.